To pass or not to pass? That is the question.

Having taken a diversion from our planned NC500 route yesterday, our main aim today was to reach Applecross. The question, however, remained: would we take the Bealach Na Ba Pass or go for the less adventurous coastal road, where we would be far less likely to get stuck?

As we were packing down and washing up from our adventurous roast dinner, the air was split yet again, but this time by the rotating blades of a Coastguard helicopter. Slightly confused – it was a bit early for a mountain rescue attempt – we didn’t think much of it when silence fell. Later however, it was great to witness the winch training of the Kintail Mountain Rescue Team. As people ever grateful to the tireless efforts of the MRT, it was wonderful to witness men, women, dogs, volunteers and full time professionals training to keep everyone safe. The downdraught from the helicopter was immense and, while the adults had their phones/cameras out, the children weren’t too sure whether to get closer or run away. One little girl was more than content with her colouring and not phased, at all, by the whole thing. I was particularly impressed by the MRT dog, who just watched the whole thing from a safe distance – no barking and no grumbling.

Eventually, after multiple photos and videos were taken, the helicopter took off for the last time and we finished packing off.

Soon, we were on our way to Applecross and, for the first half of the journey, we couldn’t see how the Bealach Na Ba Pass could have been any worse (we had chosen the “less adventurous” coastal route). Tight bends, 14% inclines and descents, oncoming traffic and constant worries about sheep on the road, made me thankful that I wasn’t driving! Also the views were gorgeous. Finding a Highland coo or two, made the journey all the more worthwhile before we descended into Applecross Bay. We noticed that a few motorhomes had chosen to park up on the green by the bay itself and why not? It was flat, relatively dry, with a few fire scars available for cooking/keeping warm. Had the weather forecast been better we may have been tempted to change our plans…

A minor detour past the required exit for the campsite, meant that we took in the sites and facilities of Applecross sooner than expected. Applecross Inn was clearly the hub of the community, with many people choosing to visit the Airstream “Outside Inn” branch of the popular pub. Parking was fine albeit a little tight for a three point turn in our 7.45m motorhome.

Applecross Campsite – our home for the night – is a large campsite with wooden cabins, hardstanding and grass pitches. The main office is well stocked with refreshments and breakfasts provided for a small fee. The town has clearly worked hard, together, to make the most of the visiting tourists who pass through or choose to stay a little longer. If our schedule had allowed, we would have been tempted to stay for at least another night.

It would have been rude if dinner had not come from the renowned Applecross Inn and it definitely didn’t disappoint. We were lucky to be there when space was available as when the clouds rolled in, so did the customers. The large chalk board dictated the menu, specials, starters, desserts and it was hard to choose. In the end: the lamb and scallops were outstanding – although I think we both looked longingly at the langoustines more than once.

Beneath heavier clouds and under the spatterings of a storm, we headed back, fully sated, to the campsite. With a drink in hand we were moved by two cyclists who arrived shortly after 21:00. Absolutely sodden, they attempted to pitch (in heavy winds) their also soaked tent. Scottish weather was performing at it’s best and it wasn’t appreciated by them. Not long after offering them a place to dry clothes, Sebastian and his son Luca arrived and spent a while chatting about their cycling adventures while sharing a dram of Macallan Gold.

The night was sure to be blustery, and the mist rolled in off the mountains. There was no chance of Northern Lights for us, nor a sunset like those displayed in the Inn. Tomorrow we are due to head North, to Gairloch and then beyond. We are now in unchartered territory and sure to be amazed by what lay ahead.