After a leisurely start, we packed up and continued our journey under blue skies and cotton wool clouds. Following the instructions of the now infamous Mr Tait, we headed North and then West along the coastal route, navigating single track roads and banks of sea lochs. Turning to follow Little Loch Broom (a long narrow inlet), we entered somewhat ‘wilder’ country. Still, we were hopeful that we would see the well reported Ardessie Falls: reached from a “well signposted car park and a steep path which followed the Ardessie river for approximately 1000m”. Well, things must have changed recently: there was no car park, let alone a signposted one, and no path. We drove up and down the road for some time before abandoning the motorohome outside a water plant and following what could only be described as a scat trail.

While the roadside waterfall was impressive, nothing prepared us for what we saw after our ascent…

The falls dwarfed Colin and I and had carved impressive gorges amongst the heather. There were some heart-in-mouth moments as we jumped from rock to rock, wondering just how far up the mountain the falls reached. While utterly spectacular, I do wonder whether we saw it all.

Blue skies were soon invaded by ominous clouds though, so we made our way back to the van along with several others who were hastily leaving the hilltops. Literally, as we reached the tarmac with slightly soggy feet, the heavens opened and the views were lost.

Fed and watered, we continued onwards to Ullapool, not knowing what would be waiting for us. We decided, if we could, to stay for two nights to rest and recoup. a little, nearly one week into our trip.

A short while later, booked in for two nights at Broomfield Holiday Park and safely parked on our Milenco pads (it was a bit soggy), we strolled into the village for a G&T overlooking the shoreline. We now know that some Americans pay an extortionate amount to visit Scotland, as a cruise liner was moored slightly off-shore. It towered over the rusting fishing trawlers and definitely became the talking point in the pubs. After failing to be served in a local ‘quirky’ gastropub, we ended watching dusk roll in at The Arch Inn – very nice it was too!

We decided against a pub dinner and are now so glad we did. We were able to watch the sun set into the sea while enjoying a wee dram with some newly-found German friends. The sunset was more than I could have ever hoped for and the midges stayed away long enough for it to be enjoyable. Broomfield Holiday Park attracted a wide range of campers in reinforced, adapted Landrovers, caravans, motorhomes, wind-buffeted tents and wooden traditional gypsy style caravans and everyone came together as night drew in.