It had been an incredibly windy night with winds gusting up to 60mph. And we felt it. It had been a joy to park the motorhome overlooking white sands, rocky outcrops and blue skies but the wind had increased, the rain arrived and packing up was not so much fun.
Still, it would have been a mistake not to go to Smoo Cave on our way East. The dramatic sea cave, set into the limestone cliffs, was approximately 1 mile from the campsite. In our laziness, or in the hope to avoid the rain (real wet, bone chilling rain – you know the type) we drove and parked in a layby mere yards away from the car park. In doing so, we crossed a wooden bridge over, what we thought was a river. Glancing down, our stomachs turned as we realised we were above a waterfall that disappeared deep under ground. The cave was unmanned, yet well signposted, with a clear and well-maintained pathway leading down to sea level. Unfortunately, but not surprisingly, due to the heavy rainfall, we could only enter the first cave – that which had been eroded by the sea. Further freshwater caves, which ran into the limestone, were only accessible by boat and the water level was just too high to make it plausible.
From the cave, we headed back to Cocoa Mountain, a necessity after being drenched by Scottish drizzle. Today, it was far less crowded and, despite my inner self urging me otherwise, I settled for a cappuccino and “chaser” chocolates. The truffles were divine and I think the fact they ship to anywhere could be the end of me!
Fully sated, we continued our onward journey along the top of the Scottish mainland to Dunnet Bay. It wasn’t long before we met our first major obstruction – several hundred sheep and a shepherd (with dogs) on the back of a quad bike. Patience is a virtue not held by some locals and tourists when it comes to livestock on the only road. Thankfully the bedraggled dogs and their owners swiftly guided the sheep over the hilltop and we carried onwards.
Arriving at Dunnet Bay Caravan and Motorhome Site, we were amazed by the miles of white sand that greeted us. The beach is accessed via a private gate and short walk across sand dunes. The request not to pile rubbish from the beach next to the dog waste bin was randomly unappreciative of the efforts people had made to clear it. That being said, the beach was spotless so I appreciated it! The bay at Durness was somehow squashed by this expanse of space and there was some definite surf out there. Next purchase – wetsuits so that we can enjoy these beaches, coves and inlets as we find them.
This is not a midlife crisis... 